Omizutori (Shunie at Tōdai-ji)

Origin

The Shunie of Nigatsudō at Tōdai-ji. The temple dates its founding to 752, by Jitchū, a senior disciple of Rōben, who established Tōdai-ji; since then it has run as “the rite that does not retreat”, never once interrupted. At its centre is the *jūichimen keka*, which the temple describes as confessing, before the eleven-faced Kannon of Nigatsudō, the various faults we commit in daily life. The monks who perform it are called the *rengyōshū*. **It is not staged for an audience; it is a fortnight of practice.**

What to look for

Each night an attendant carries a great torch up to the balcony of Nigatsudō, and sparks fall from the rail. This is the *otaimatsu*. **But it is not a spectacle. In the temple’s own words, the torches are lit “as the light by which the monks performing this rite make their way.”** The drawing of water that gives the rite its popular name takes place after midnight on the twelfth, past one in the morning of the thirteenth: the monks process down to the well house and carry the sacred water back to the altar, two vessels at a time, three times over.

How to watch

Behave on the understanding that this is a place of practice. The interior of the hall is closed. **For safety, entry is cut off once the viewing area reaches capacity.** There are points where you cannot stop and stand, so do not plan on holding a spot. Watch quietly.

If you go

**The twelfth is at once the night you most want and the night you can see least.** It carries the largest torches, and the water-drawing follows after midnight. But the twelfth is also the day the temple’s lay confraternities attend, and other visitors are moved through one-way without stopping, so what you actually see lasts moments. Tōdai-ji therefore advises choosing another day. **On every other night, confraternity members and the public watch on the same terms, and you may stand and stay.** On any night, entry is cut off once the area reaches capacity. It is inside Nara Park and within walking distance of the city.

Where

Nigatsudō, Tōdai-ji

Nara, Nara

Sources

• Tōdai-ji, official page on the Shunie
• Tōdai-ji, official page on the water-drawing
• Tōdai-ji, official guidance for attending the otaimatsu
• Nara City Tourist Association, on the Shunie